Day 34 (Sep 20) - What a day!

Here I am in Bodhgaya, having had the most incredible day yesterday (Friday 19th).I should start with a brief description of Kolkata. Arriving there after 8 blissful days in
Darjeeling I was anxious that it'd be hot and horrible. The temperature when we arrived (at 7am)
was not too bad, so that bode well. The first few days were spent wandering around, but on the 3rd day we caught up with a couch-
surfer, who appeared very keen to catch up. His name is Jaiprakesh. We went to his home to meet
him, his two children (boy and girl, 7 and 12 years old) and his wife. Spent many hours there
chatting, flying kites on his rooftop (tall apartment building) and watching the fireworks (it
was a kite festival that day). We eventually made it back to our hotel after 10pm! It was
fantastic to have spent some time with a local, and such a welcoming one too. He invited us to
come over the next day to take a ferry ride across the river (weather permitting, as it was
raining quite frequently). We took up his invitation, and took our luggage (we were leaving that
night) to his place. It was raining when we arrived (early afternoon) so we spent a couple of
hours playing games with his kids. Jen and I became quite competative! Now to Bodhgaya:I arrived at 7am, a 13km autorickshaw ride from Gaya. I hadn't organised accomodation as
everywhere I'd phoned said "just turn up" (it's off-season here in India). Sat down for a bite to
eat, and was immediately accosted by a young boy (13 years old maybe). He sat with me at my
table, while I was eating, so I chatted. Knowing that he'd eventually want something from me
(money or to take me to his dad's shop, or something like that as I've experienced elsewhere in
India all-too-often) I was a little off hand. I was then joined by a second boy who was also keen
to chat. I ate slowly and chatted a little with them, still being guarded. I warned them that if
they asked me for something after I'd finished that it'd be bad Karma (I'd established that they
were both Hindu) to avoid any issue. Eventually I got rid of them and searched for hotel (8am by
this stage). I arrived at one I'd heard of, but with my two passports (one invalid damaged one
with my Indian visa, and another valid new one without a visa) I wasn't allowed to stay. It was
too strange for the person at reception. I walked out, pissed off, in search of somewhere else. Walking towards a monastery I was again
accosted by 2 young lads, who were very keen to help me. They suggested some places, and I
politely declined, as places often pay commission to locals for bringing them to their hotel (and
then charging the guest extra to cover the commission). At least this is what I learned in the
Lonely Planet. I mentioned a place I'd heard of already, and these boys showed me the way (it was
a little out-of-the-way. I checked in successfully, while the boys waited downstairs. I came back
down, and was convinced by them that they were happy to take me around on their motorbike. They
offered to take me 18km out of town to some caves (Durgeshwari Temple)where it's said that Buddha
spent some time if I'd pay for the petrol (one litre). This would cost me only 60Rs (less than
$AUD2!). Autorickshaws would cost 200Rs or more for the round trip (again, according to the
Lonely Planet), so it seemed a great deal. I agreed, saying a needed a few hours to shower/rest
etc. so for them to come back at 10:30.Sure enough, at 10:30 there they were (Anup the one who's bike it was, and who spoke the
best English). I'd put on some shoes (rather than thongs) as I was slightly cautious, seriously
thinking they may rob me or something, so I wanted something to be able to run in!Anyway, true to their word, they took me (3 of us, un-helmeted on the one bike) there, and Anup
even explained the details of the place, having told me earlier he wasn't a guide! It turns Anup
spent 6 years at a Buddhist Monastery, so knew his fair share of Buddhist history etc.! As we were riding back, I mentioned to them that I'd like to hire a scooter. Nowhere in Bodhgaya
hires scooters, and it'd be more than I was willing to pay for a motorbike (600Rs) but Anup
kindly offered to loan his bike to me while he was at school. This is after only knowing him for
3 hours! I could hardly believe it.So, arriving nearby their school (both of them studied at the same monastery) Anup had me test
ride his bike, so he was sure that I could ride. I hopped on, started and rode around tentatively
shifting into 2rd and 3rd gears to check that the clutch and gears were fine. And they were (it
was only 2 years old). So, Anup was happy, and went to his class, and left me, alone with his
bike.I rode back along the road, about 3km to a village market I'd spotted on the way back from the
caves. Pulling over I was the talk of the market. Apparently not many tourists visit, so I had a
group of 20 kids following behind me ("Hello!", "Namaste!", "How are you!"). I was thirsty by
this stage, as I hadn't had much to drink since breakfast, so wandered the market in search of
water, and some food. No bottled water here I was told by the one person I found that could speak
English, so I stuck to my 1/2 full bottle. Purchasing some Chaat (a hot snack of a broken samosa with marsala and other sauces poured on
top), I sat on the ground to eat. Immediately after I sat, I had 30 children standing around
peering at me curiously. Probably thinking "what's this strange white man doing?". Maybe I was
sitting with my legs crossed the wrong way, or ate in a strange way, but they all seemed
incredibly interested. An old lady who I'd sat near started talking to me in Hindi, of which I
understand precisely nothing, and I answered here in English, which she understood as much as I
understood her Hindi. We had a 2 minute conversation, while being looked down from above by the
standing children. After my food, I opened by bag, at which time the children came in closer, to
get my hot tea from my flask. They laughed as I poured it into my cup, and drunk. I snapped a few shots of the kids, then thought I'd love to be in one of the shots, so attempted
to explain to a 9 year old kid, how to use my SLR and to take a shot of me with everyone else.
One shot managed to be made before my batteries died!
Wow. Heading back to my bike, while being followed by not only kids, but Autorickshaw wallahs
(drivers) asking in the only English they knew, if I needed a ride, not expecting me to pull out
my Honda Hero key, hop on, and take off. Riding on India roads is an adventure, even in and around small towns. People don't exactly stick
to their side of the rode, but overtake at almost any opportunity, while blasting their horns to
let people know they're there. I got the hang of the horn blasting, but overtaking a wide truck
on a bike I'd only been riding for 2 hours, on roads with barely enough space for 2 cars to pass,
was a little too much, so I ended up breathing in truck fumes while auto rickshaws and other
motorbikes wizzed by me on my right. I attempted to overtake a few times but chickened out when
something started approaching.
Back in town (Bodhgaya) I attempted to find the meeting spot where I'd arranged to pick the guys
back up, but couldn't! I was absolutely lost. It's a very small town, but I hadn't done my usual
aimless wonder yet to orient myself. I'd just been a passenger then rode directly out of town
without enough regard of how to get back to that exact spot! I asked for directions to the Post
Office (I'd spotted it when I entered town, and it was near enough from where I was supposed to
meet Anoop and his friend) but after 15 minutes and many people directing me, arriving outside a
small post office, discovered that there were 2 post offices in town! It was now 10 minutes
before I was supposed to meet Anup! I was truly lost. I'd even ridden all the way through town,
and out the other side at one point!30 mins after I was supposed to meet them I pulled up alongside a woman, and asked her. She
turned out to not speak any English, and I was starting to get very concerned that Anup might
think I'd had an accident, or maybe even tried to steal his bike!As I was turning by bike around in front of the woman, I heard someone from a window in a house
shouting. He came out, and was a young guy, who spoke very good English. He said "Is this Anoop's
bike?". Anup? He knew Anup? It turns out that many people know Anup. This lad introduced
himself as Julian, and said he'd help me get back to where I was supposed to meet Anup, if I'd
give him a ride. Give him a ride? Of COURSE! 2 mins later, I was at the meeting point, but 40
mins late! Anup was no-where to be seen. We crossed a bridge heading towards the school, when we
passed Anup's brother, asked him if he knew where he was. No. Tried calling him. Phone was off.
We went to the local markets. No sign of him. I felt so bad, hat I'd have made Anup panic, and
even that he'd be spending time searching for me. But about 30 mins later we found him, and he
was blase about the whole thing. "Don't worry! It's fine" he assured me!We chatted some more, while he showed me around all of the temples in town, and I got to know
him. He was just a honest young guy, who had setup a school for under-privalged children, and
loved meeting foreigners. After many hours of temples, we headed for dinner, which I shouted him
(obviously!) went to watch the 2nd half of a soccer match, then back to the hotel at 8pm.
I sat down in the room, hardly able to comprehend what I'd just done. I want more experiences
like that!
Today we caught up again, and I was shown some temples out of town, that I'd imagine not many
tourists would make it to. I even rode with the 2 guys on the back for a while, across some
pretty hairy roads!
What an experience. I don't imagine I'll be able to have a similar experience anywhere else in
India, but I sincerely hope so.Off to Gwalior tomorrow to make my way to Khajaraho and Orchha. Just surviving the heat now! Wow is it hot!
That is all.

Day 23 (Sep 9) - Darjeeling

Now almost a month into my trip. Am settling very well into India. Took about a week to get used to the place, but now I'm just going with the flow.
Please bear with me with this post. It's extra long.

What have I been up to since my last post?
Missing my train
I missed my train from Delhi to Agra. My train was scheduled for 5:40 pm. At 5:15 pm the sign at my platform had my train listed as the next train at the platform. So I sat and waited for an announcement for us to start boarding. Each announcement comes first in Hindi, then in English. Many announcements for other trains on other platforms, but none for mine. Then the sign at my platform went blank. When the sign came back on, my train was no longer listed. I waited for an announcement for my train number. But nothing (in English anyway). 5 minutes before my train was supposed to leave I was concerned. No announcement, no sign. Nothing.
I asked some people on the platform whether the train sitting there was the Agra train, and they said yes. So I waited further.
At 6:00 pm I was very concerned, so rushed to the booking office to ask someone official. There are long queues at the booking office. 10 to 15 people long each. I pushed into the front of one of the lines, and asked the assistant what platform my train was on. He said it had left already! My guess was that a Hindi announcement was made but not an English one.
I needed to book a new train! I had to leave the queue, fill in a new booking form, line up again, and pay for another trip. The next train to Agra (7:30pm) was full, so I had to wait for one leaving at 9pm (arriving in Agra at 1am). Anyway I arrived in Agra, and learned a few lessons (*see below).

Agra
Agra was really nice. A combination of a great rooftop restaurant at the place we were staying, and me getting used to the country accounted for my having a good time. In the 4 days at Agra we did 3 things. Visited some local monument (the "Taj Mahal", or something like that), visited Agra Fort, and read books on the rooftop. Quite relaxing.

Varanasi
After Agra was one of the holiest places in India. We stayed 2 nights in an un-air conditioned room at a hotel right on the river (Ganges). But Jen and I were rather unwell. Jen especially. So we thought we'd get an AC (air conditioned) room. The rates at our hotel were unnecessarily high, especially for an AC room, so I headed out one morning, early, to search for other places. Found a new hotel place and negotiated a good price for an AC room for our remaining 3 nights in town. Jen stayed in most of the time while I explored (mornings before 10am, and afternoons after 4pm. 10am-4pm was spent reading/snoozing in the room). Didn't do too much in Varanasi. 2 boat rides, and some wondering around the Ghats. Just trying to relax/recover as much as I could.

Darjeeling
Getting to Darjeeling was a fair effort. Our train on Saturday from Varanasi was 90 minutes - 5:15pm instead of 3:45pm- from Varanasi, and arrived 6 hours late in New Jalpaiguri (a train station 3 hours drive from Darjeeling) - 2pm instead of 7am. Then waiting at the shared taxi stand for a taxi to fill up to start the drive to Darjeeling. We arrived at 8pm in Darjeeling after having boarded our train more than 24 hours earlier in Varanasi.
What a place! 22 degrees today. No longer sweating! Can wear a top two days in a row without washing it! It's really stunning up here too. Spectacular scenery and views.
The place we're staying (Guest House Andy's) is really beautiful. The best place we've stayed so far in our trip. The room is clean, nice bathroom (which is a welcome change) and a lovely helpful lady who runs the place. Am glad we're spending 7 nights here.

Today is my first day of fasting for Ramadan, as I have no more medication to take, and the climate is cooler (no sweating to dehydrate me!). I'll keep it up at least for the remainder of my stay in Darjeeling (until 14 September). I'm hoping the week recovering here in Darjeeling will refresh me, so I can tackle the heat again when I get to Kolkata (September 15).


* 4 Lessons I've learned so far in India
1. Ignore strangers approaching you or lie to them.
Strange male: "Hey Mister! Where you from?"
Me: "Delhi"
Strange male: *looks me up and down* "you don't look like you're from Delhi"
Me: "I work there. Been there for 3 years"
Stranger male: "Oh" *walks away*

If you say where you're really from, they'll say "Oh, very nice country" and continue walking alongside while chatting to you, trying to get you to go into their store. Very annoying! Even if you say you're not interested 10 times, they'll persist. Saying you're local(ish) tends to keep them at bay.

2. Never ask an Indian a leading question.
They'll always tell you something, and would rather lie than say they don't know.

3. Numbers from one to ten in Hindi.
So I can listen to the announcements in Hindi about train numbers (each train has a three or four digit number), platforms and departure times.

4. Expect the power to go out at anytime
I've discovered that electricity in India (all the towns I've visited so far) isn't to be taken for granted. Varanasi had regular scheduled blackouts, and all too often unscheduled ones. Here in Darjeeling it's not too bad, but am told to be prepared.


Phew! I promise I'll try to keep further posts shorter! I feel like I'm kind of rambling sometimes!

That is all

Day 18 (Sep 4) sick in Varanassi

What's been happening?
Jen and I are a little sick. (Minor?) Bacterial infections. Just coughing lost. Jen feels unwell, while I just have the cough (feel fine). Jen visited a doctor in Agra, and was given antibiotics, but that didn't work, so we went yesterday to the private hospital here in Varanassi (yesterday). What an ordeal!!
At the public hospital in Agra, we went straight to a doctor and he inspected Jen and diagnosed it as a bacterial infection, so proscribed antibiotics, and some relief medication (paracetamol, vitamins etc.) He just gave the medications to Jen for no charge. No charge for the consultation either. Quite an experience, having expected to have to pay something.
Anyway, Jen is still unwell 4 days later, after finishing the antibiotics. So to the private hospital in Varanassi. I thought I'd get checked out too, as I've had a cough for 2 weeks.
We arrived at 4:30pm and were both inspected. When the doctor listened to my chest he advised an X-Ray, so we did that. Then to a specialist (chest/respiritory)! The specialist wanted to hospitalise me! for 2 nights! At this point I was thinking they've spotted a "rich" foreigner and wanted to squeeze me for all they could!
I politely refused, explaining that back at home I'd be prescribed some medication for my asthma, and I'd go home. He insisted on staying 1 night, I then lied, saying I was leaving in the morning. He then gave in and said I must be admitted for 4 hours (it was 6:30pm by this stage). It was 2000 rupees for the 4 hour stay, and Rs 2000 more administration charge. This is on top of the Rs 1000 for the Xray and Rs 630 for the consultation. Note that we're paying about Rs 400 - 500 per night for accomodation. So the Rs 5630 is 10 nights accomodation! I said, thanks but no thanks, just prescribe me some medications, and I'll be out of here. They noted that I refused hospitalisation (on my assessment) and prescribed me Rs 1700 worth of drugs! Finally I was out of there at 7:30. Jen was given Rs 500 worth of drugs.
I'm certain that it's the rich foreigner thing.
That's the last time I visit a private hospital in India!
Please ignore any typos above. I'm typing quickly as there's a power outage in 2 mins.
that is all.